Wednesday, January 4, 2012

17. A Letter to Our Returned American Friends

[May 29 cont.] 12:45 p.m.  Joyce's Ulysses makes so many connections, about all parts of our lives, right down to toe jam and sitting on the can.  He truly identifies what it is like to be human.  It is true.  Does Joyce write, as Ellman says, about love?  It seems there are so many connections that the message becomes obscured.  Anything/everything can be everything/anything by analogy; everything can be connected, but, having once demonstrated this facility, what's the point except to confuse the issues?  This is modernity, I suppose, where everything seems to have some value, if only to point out our glorious ability to be free, totally, from everything.

 While we have broken down barriers, however, we really have not changed much as people.  It seems there should be a time to stop challenging the old notions and start choosing what are the best.  Freedom is beautiful, but it is not the same as beauty.


* * * * *

30 May 1992

Dear Jan and Paul,

I've been thinking about you guys lately, some time ago actually, as March rolled around and I thought this was the time last year when you came over.  So now it is May.  Talk about delayed reaction!

You forgot to tell us about the oil-seed rape.  It was spectacular over the last months, brilliant lemony yellow fields, which are just now fading.  I made three trips to the airport (two Gatwick, one Heathrow) during May and I got some good looks, it was truly something.  It seems that we have had a steady procession of flowers since February.  The roses have just BURST upon the scene and they too are something else.  The Cambridge Evening News says this is shaping up as the hottest May since 1833, and the May 25 bank holiday was the hottest on record.  Nothing outrageous mind you, about 77!  Last few days we have had some heavy showers which have cooled things off nicely.  Now the poppies are starting to bloom by the roadside. 

Since I last wrote, we went to Venice the last week of February.  It was mystical and magical.  Weather was lovely, we stayed not far from St. Mark's, many people in costume, walking around in pairs, never saying a word, just posing for photographers.  We had the city almost to ourselves during the weekdays; by Saturday and Sunday it was jammed and I can see that Venice would not be a lot of fun under those circumstances.  We took the train both ways, about 24 hours, including a night's sleep on the train, which is not all that relaxing.  Still we all had a great time.

After Lent term was out in March, we all hopped into the VW and drove down to Rome, taking three days to get there and stopping in St. Quentin, Basel and Milano.  We had found for us a pensione very close to St. Peter's and did our best to get out and see the sights everyday, usually leaving three at the room and taking one of the older ones with us.  A pizza bar just a door or two away became our hangout.  At the bar and just about everywhere the people loved Thomas, the piccolo, as the bar owner called him.  We saw the pope with thousands, but were close enough to the aisle that Jeffrey, Mara and Robert managed a handshake or a pat on the head from the Holy Father.  It was a bit like a rugger scrum and Robert emerged showing the wear from the great squish, but nobody complained; we even got Jeffrey to agree to wash his hands afterwards.  Everyone's favorite was the Pieta, though I think mine was the Sistine Chapel.  The weather was about five or so degrees warmer than here and it seemed that we had suddenly descended into spring, wisteria in bloom, green trees....  The downside was that everyone except me came down with tonsillitis.  Fortunately we had a bottle of penicillin which we could pass around, though it was a real battle trying to get Thomas to take those evil tasting tablets.  We mixed them in Ribena, chocolate, anything we could think of, but he wouldn't go for it.  Finally, we found children's amoxicillin at the pharmacy and were given it over the counter.  Hooray!

From Rome we drove up to a hillside villa in Tuscany.  We had outings to Florence, Siena and San Gimignano during our week.  Nothing was too crowded, but the weather could have been better.  It rained quite a bit and with our central heating on and a lot of windows in the flat, we ended up with mud on the tile floor and pools of condensation as well.  It was an effort to keep it clean, but I suppose cleaning is a good way to fill up the spare time with no TV.

From Tuscany we drove to Salzburg for a night then four nights in Munich.  Salzburg was lovely and we happened to go on the prettiest day of the trip.  Lots of green fields and forests, with the rugged, snow capped Alps in the background.  Munich was busier.  We found it hard to get used to German, after all the Italian and French we have been used to hearing, but I think we all enjoyed it, visiting the kids museum, BMW museum, Art Museum and, of course, the beer halls.  Cathy at least ordered a liter, though she didn't do too well.  We found the place to order sausage and sauerkraut; it was delicious.  Lots of churches.  Munich was the seat of the counter Reformation, and a staunchly Catholic region (also where the Nazis started!).  As a sobering experience, we visited Dachau.  Not much to say about that except to wonder how it happened, but then you know that it starts with little lies and grows to bigger ones, with nobody willing to stand up and tell the truth. 

Speaking about standing up, I gave Cathy the Jan Sicking award last week when she called the school and spoke to the Deputy Head about bullying in Robert's class.  Robert never said anything about it, but we were watching a show about a girl who committed suicide because of bullying, and the conversation turned to a kid in Robert's class (walks funny because bad tendons) who many of the kids call names and even go so far as to take his snack away everyday.  It's the worst of the British school system, just like you hear.  Cathy gave Robert a snack to give to this boy (he said, "Ta") and then called the school.  Robert had just sort of accepted this as the normal order of things, saying the boy didn't seem to mind.  I don't think I would have done what Cathy did!

Cathy and I continue to visit London regularly, mostly to see plays and art shows.  We missed the St. John choristers singing from the roof of the chapel in town, but the children went.  On bank holiday we went to Audley End for a sheep dog display and then over to the Clavering Fete.  Two weeks before it was the Essex Young Farmers' Show.  My parents were here again in May and we finally made it to York on a lovely day.  We're keeping up with the television shows.  I think over the last month we saw four of them, the best of which was "Anglo Saxon Attitudes."  Keep an eye open on PBS for it, it was very very English.  Robert didn't make the cricket team but he is the scorer.  The school has games on Mondays and Wednesdays and gets a pretty good turn out from the parents.  The weather so far has made the afternoon games just perfect, starting at 2:15 and ending at 6, with tea sometime around 4.  I have got tickets and plan on taking Jeffrey and Robert to see the England/Pakistan test match at Lords in June. 

This week coming up is the big week of tests at school.  Everyone has been busily "revising" his or her work over the year.  Jeffrey makes his first communion on the 7th.  Robert goes to France with the French class on the 9th for the day.  Summer term half term is 12th to 26th and then school gets out on the 22nd of July.  We've booked a return on the 28th and plan to meet our VW in New York and head home, hoping we can add eight more states to our total of 17 so our trip will have covered half.  I have to drop the car off in Germany (Emden) around the 24th of June for shipment home.  That reminds me that we haven't firmed up any shipment of our stuff back home, did you use someone in Cambridge or have a name you can recommend? 

We hadn't met any ex-pats for awhile to talk about the British, but finally managed to spend the day with our lawyer friend in London who helped with immigration and is now redundant by her LA firm.  It was a great day: the Chelsea Flower show and our first Pimm's and lemonade, and a chance to talk about things we notice different.  How much fun!

See you soon. Our love to Carry, Danny and Alison. 


The Swifts

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